Beni di Batasiolo GaviGavi is one of those Italian wines that lingers in a netherworld – not as popular as pinot grigio or even Soave and not always easy to find. But when it’s done well, it’s a wine that makes you go, “Wow, why was I wasting my time with all that crappy pinot grigo?”

Case in point is the Beni di Batasiolo ($14, purchased, available at Jimmy’s), which was everything I hoped it would be. This white wine is made with the cortese grape in Piedmont, where it has to vie for attention with some of the best-known Italian red wines, Barbaresco and Barolo among them. Is it any wonder it gets lost in the shuffle?

This wine has bright and fresh lemon fruit, some stoniness (or was that bitter almonds?), and low alcohol – the kind of balance that the best Italian white wines are known for. It’s surprisingly versatile, whether you drink it chilled on its own, with grilled seafood, or even with Tuesday night takeout.