Australian wine seems to be divided into two categories: the really expensive stuff that gets high praise from the wine magazines and the cheap stuff, like Yellow Tail, that doesn’t get high praise from the wine magazines.

Hence the good news about Red Knot cabernet sauvignon and shiraz and White Knot chardonnay from the Davey Family Winery, a respected producer down under. These are moderately priced wines ($13 for the reds and $10 for the white) that are pleasant to drink and taste like they come from Australia. Those last two items, incidentally, are not as common as you might think.

The chardonnay is unoaked, which means it’s crisp and clean like a sauvignon blanc with more pear than citrus. The cabernet has cherry fruit and some vanilla overtones, while the shiraz is one of the most drinkable, inexpensive bottles I’ve tasted in a long time, with red fruits instead of the more typical black. Look for these wines at Kroger, Central Market, Goody Goody, Centennial and Target.