Tony Waldrop started out busing tables in his family’s popular neighborhood restaurant on Northwest Highway and Abrams. Today he runs the show at both Enchilada’s, and points with pride to their veteran staff and multi-generational customer base. In a business where half of new eateries don’t make it through their second year, he doesn’t take success for granted.

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By way of explanation Waldrop says that Enchilada’s, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, “has reinvented Tex-Mex” with items like “messy burritos,” and that yummy and oh-so-secret sour cream sauce recipe. Also known for their grilled shrimp and chicken, and of course their enchiladas, the restaurant regularly comes up with ways to surprise the taste buds of their faithful following.

 

But don’t panic if a new item at Enchilada’s bumps your all-time favorite dish off the menu. Just ask your waiter for what you’ve always had. The folks at this home-style restaurant know that Tex-Mex cravings are to be taken seriously — your order is on the way.

 

Tony’s Chicken

(serves four)

 

Tony Waldrop of Enchilada’s places a great deal of emphasis on proper marinating of meats that are to be grilled. His kitchen does it faithfully, with this recipe and with fajitas. So don’t cut that corner!

 

Another interesting note for home chefs: Enchilada’s is in the process of publishing a book of recipes that will include stories and customer anecdotes from past years.

 

4 whole boneless, skinless chicken breasts

3 cups marinade (recipe below)

1/4 lb. bacon, cooked and crumbled

1/4 lb. Monterey Jack cheese, grated

 

Marinate whole chicken breasts for at least 24 hours.

 

Remove chicken from marinade and grill over medium-high heat until done, approximately 15 minutes.

 

Cover with bacon crumbles and top with grated cheese.

 

Place under broiler until cheese melts.

 

Marinade

 

16 oz. bottled Italian dressing

1 cup fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup garlic powder

1/2 cup fajita spice (found on the spice aisle of most grocery stores)

 

 

What About Wine?

 

Summer is the perfect time to enjoy a rosé — that pink wine that always seems out of place at the liquor store.

 

“There are some exciting rosés out there, especially from the south of France,” says Randy McLaughlin, the director of fine wines for Sigel’s Liquor Stores. “And one of the best things about them is that they aren’t very expensive.”

 

Rosés, which are not to be confused with the sweeter white zinfandels, are made with red grapes. But the juice used to make a rosé is left in contact with the grape skins for only a matter of hours, instead of up to two weeks for red wine. This technique produces the trademark pink color. The best rosés, which go well with spicy food and barbecue, should be only a couple of years old. Serve them well chilled.

 

Consider the following:

• Grand Cassagne Rosé 1998 ($8). This wine, made in Provence, is light and refreshing. It’s something that they’re drinking in Parisian cafes this summer.    

• Toad Hollow Pinot Noir Rosé 1998 ($9). This wine is dry, like a traditional pinot noir, but tastes like a well-made rosé .

• La Vielle Ferme Rosé ($7). This may be bulk wine from southern France, but it is still a terrific value.