Let’s be straight about this: The recession, as horrible as it has been, has been great for wine prices. Nothing illustrates this better than the J Pinot Gris, which was just another California wine until J decided it needed something more affordable to sell during the recession and slashed the price by 25 percent.

Does this make up for unemployment, suffering, and hard times? Nope. But to paraphrase Sam in “Casablanca”: “It sure do take the sting out of being recess-ed.”

This vintage of the pinot gris ($15, sample) is the third at this price, and it’s certainly the most interesting. The alcohol is lower, and the wine tastes fresher, more lively, and not as soft. There is lots of citrus in the front (lemon and lime?), a tropical-ish middle and a lingering finish that’s pleasant if not very obvious. All in all, a wine that deserves the term yummy.

Serve this chilled on its own or with something fried – chicken, seafood or mushrooms would all work well.