Though Rusty Taco is not within the bounds of LH-proper, the hip, new taco spot has been populated with plenty of employees and customers from LH each time I’ve visited, so I’ve taken some liberties in reviewing it here.
First, the name. Owner Rusty Fenton, who co-founded Uncle Julio’s in the 1980’s, is a veteran restaurateur with a penchant for fresh ingredients and homemade tortillas. The joint’s signature dish, the Rusty Taco, gets its rusty color from the spices mixed with anchiote pork and charred pineapple. And the best part is the price – all tacos are $2.
You’ll find Rusty Taco in the former Just Brakes at the corner of University and Greenville, across the street from Parkit Markit, owned by LH residents Tony and Sari Todora. The ambience might be transformed garage, with liftable rolling doors and concrete floors, but everything is new and clean from the open-style kitchen to the corrugated tin walls to the communal picnic tables. The covered patio can seat more than 100 diners, and it has a Taco Shack feel, for those who frequent the Austin fast-taco chain. You’ll find Pat Green and the Rolling Stones on the jukebox (okay, not on the same song), and you can reach for a cold bottle of beer icing down in the open tubs or a frozen margarita or a fountain soda.
My favorite menu item was the breakfast taco with egg, cheese and jalapeno sausage, but the chorizo and bacon versions were delicious, too. I liked the Rajas Taco for lunch, with its grilled poblanos, mushrooms and queso fresco, but I also enjoyed the brisket taco, which was moist and flavorful.
“Most people like the shrimp tacos,” former LHHS soccer captain Luke Stringer told me. (He’s earning a few bucks there this summer before he heads off to UT). “But my favorite is the chicken.” Also working there are Chui Kaping, captain of the Wildcat football team, Scott Morgan, also an LHHS football player, and Abe Myers, recent LH Top Ten graduate. When I visited yesterday I ran into a group of sophomore boys from LH being treated by their Young Life leader.
Rusty Taco is open weekdays from 7 am to 10 pm, Saturday 8 am to 10 pm, and Sundays 8 to 8, so you’re likely to find them open when you’re hungry. But parking is another story. The postage stamp of a lot has trouble accommodating the crowd. If you find a spot, consider buying a lotto ticket – it’s your lucky day.
