I manage my inventory on some nifty software called CellarTracker, and one of its most interesting features is the ability to read what others write about wines that I’ve had. I especially enjoyed the comments for this wine.

It’s not that other CellarTracker users didn’t like the D’Argent (about $10, available at Centennial), because they did. Rather, they were baffled by it. "Nice to experience a different kind of sauvignon blanc," wrote one. "I’m more familiar with 100 percent sauvignon blanc, and it was interesting to compare to this sauvignon blanc/semillon blend," wrote another.

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In our increasingly review-oriented, score-driven wine world, the D’Argent is an old-fashioned, very unhip kind of wine. Which means it’s not going to be written up, which means people aren’t going to try it. Which is a shame, because — as the CellarTracker drinkers learned — it’s well worth trying. Forget about New Zealand sauvignon blanc  and grapefruit. This white Bordeaux has very little fruit flavor (maybe some lemon) and lots of flinty minerality — all of which makes for a refreshing, food-friendly wine. It’s what most sauvignon blanc was 15 years ago, and that’s not a back-handed compliment by any means.

Serve it chilled with big summer salads, almost any shellfish, or grilled chicken marinated in garlic, herbs, and olive oil.