Most wine drinkers see Bordeaux as a great black hole made up of wine speak, unimaginably high prices, and an incredibly complex system of chateaux and classifications.

Which makes this wine (about $15 at Central Market) all the more welcome. It’s a merlot and cabernet sauvignon blend in the classic Bordeaux style, but without any of the pretensions noted above. Classic means it’s not a fruit forward popsicle, full of blueberry and cola, like most inexpensive California merlots. Rather, it has less fruit, more earthiness, and tastes more interesting. I stumbled on this when I was looking for a red Bordeaux to use for my Cordon Bleu class tastings, and it more than filled the bill.

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Serve it with most beef (hamburgers on the grill wouldn’t be bad at all) and even some meatier vegetable dishes.