White Burgundy — chardonnay — is among the best wine in the world, and it’s usually priced that way. It’s rare to find any that costs less than $20, let alone any that is any good.

Hence J.J. Vincent Bourgogne Blanc 2005 (about $15, and available at Pogo’s at Inwood and Lovers Lane). This is a clean and crisp wine, with minerality on the back. It’s not like a California chardonnay, with all that oak, at all. Vincent is one of Burgundy’s best producers, and been in business since 1864. Plus, the 2005 vintage was one of the best in that region in decades, which makes this wine even more of a value.