Most people know zinfandel from white zinfandel, a rose-style wine  that is usually sweet and best served ice cold. But the zinfandel grape makes  another kind of wine that is almost the exact opposite — a sturdy red that is  perfect when it’s time to fire up the grill.

“Zinfandels can be fruity, spicy, and even peppery,” says Rich

Liebman, a wine buyer for Goody Goody on lower Greenville. “That makes them  ideal with spicy foods, and especially with barbecue. They are a perfect  match.”

Zinfandels are sometimes more difficult to find, but they’re worth  the effort. Serve them at 68 degrees, and let them rest in your glass for a  minute or two before drinking. Consider the following:

• Bogle Old Vines Zinfandel 1997 ($10). Most Bogle wines are  outstanding values, and this is no exception. It’s a little less powerful  than some of the other, more expensive varieties.

• DeLoach Russian River Zinfandel 1996 ($17). DeLoach makes a number  of fine zinfandels, of which this is a prime example. More complex than the  Bogle.

• Ridge Lytton Springs 1997 ($22). Ridge is one of the great  zinfandel wineries, and this is one of their great wines. It’s deep and  full-bodied, and not for the faint of heart.