Owner Fernando Barrera used to drive 30 minutes to his favorite taquería, but since opening one of his own last September, he’s staying in town. The restaurateur has already gained a following at his other restaurant, Latin Deli, on nearby Abrams. But Barrera says he always dreamed of opening a taquería. With plenty of places to grab tacos around the neighborhood, he knew his shop needed to be different. “Here, it’s simple. I focus completely on the food; everything else comes together after that,” he says. “It takes a little bit longer, but everything is made from scratch.” The homemade tortillas alone are worth the wait. Taco fillings, topped with diced onion and cilantro, range from marinated skirt steak and pastor (grilled pork marinated with onions and pineapples) to traditional Mexican taco-stand menu choices such as tripa (crunchy fried small intestine) and cabeza (beef cheek). Barrera says that his original chorizo (sausage) taco recipe was missing something, so he added chopped Peruvian-style pork, resulting in a nice smoky flavor. “People call me a chef, but I call myself a recipe follower,” he says. “Then I just add my touch.”
11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday
For a vegetarian taco, try the rajas con queso (green bell peppers sautéed with onion and mozzarella).