In a non-descript, beige building on the outskirts of Albuquerque, N.M., is the Gruet Winery, one of the best sparkling wine producers in the United States. That Gruet is one of the best, and that the company does it with grapes grown in New Mexico, speaks volumes about how far regional winemaking has come in this country.
Gruet sells more than 80,000 cases in 48 states, and it graces the wine lists of high-class bistros around the country. And it’s an example that Texas winemakers can study to learn how to match grapes with climate and turn out a critically acclaimed product at a more-than-fair price.
French champagne is terrific, but can be a little stuffy, especially when it comes to price. Gruet doesn’t have that problem. Its basic wine is Gruet Brut NV ($13), a clean, crisp sparkler with a bit of caramel on the nose and balanced acid. It’s not Dom Perignon, but it’s not supposed to be (and try finding real champagne — even ordinary stuff — for less than $30 a bottle).
Also recommended are a very berry, yet still dry Gruet Rose NV ($13), made entirely of pinot noir; the Gruet Demi-sec NV ($13), creamy and sweetish, but still balanced; and the Gruet Blanc de Blanc NV ($21), made from chardonnay and a stunner at this price. Try it in a blind tasting with French bubbly that costs $30 or $40, and prepare to be surprised.
One other surprise from Gruet: The company has planted syrah and done two vintages, and Laurent Gruet is convinced he can make world-class syrah in New Mexico for around $13. I tasted the 2004, the most recent, and it was nice — not as big as a shiraz, and with some candied fruit. It’s not as overwhelming as the sparkling wine, but in a couple of years, who knows?
